Sicily is unbelievably rich in beauty, in history, in arts, in culture. Come and experience it through the eyes of a resident: walk among the greatest Greek ruins anywhere, see incomparable Roman and Norman mosaics; eat and even learn to cook Sicilian pasta and fish; visit remote hilltop villages and spectacular landscapes; visit Mafia sites; climb smoking, fuming Etna (if she lets us). Look at a map and a guidebook and tell us what you want to see and do.

(Temple of Concord

Agrigento)

Choose from below, or invent an itinerary yourself. The number of days is up to you.

We are Siracusa experts, living in the historic centre of one of the greatest of all historic cities. If you do not have the three days this incredible city asks, we can give you the highlights tour.

GREEK SUPERPOWER: We leap with both sandals into the glory years, the rising power of the greatest city of the Greek world after Athens. From establishment as a colony of Corinth in the eighth century BC, Syracuse came to dominate the central Mediterranean, subduing both Carthage and Athens. The Syracusan Expedition is the greatest story of Greek history, as Syracuse crushed Athens, ending the first Golden Age of Western Civilisation.

That story alone is unforgettable. Yet, her victory was just the beginning of her triumphs: continual wars with Carthage, dominance of southern Italy and the middle Mediterranean, home of epic Greek myths, the greatest of pastoral poets and the premieres of classical playwrights. Here you will see the finest example anywhere of a Greek fortress, the grandest and most beautiful of Greek theatres (join us for a performance this spring), an altar the length of two football fields, and Greek temples a century older than those of Athens. We will descend into quarries that would hide a seven-storey building. Seven thousand Greeks died where now flourish gardens of tropical plants. Here we will enter an ear that would swallow a cathedral (I'm serious). Yes, always there are stories: stories of Plato frustrated by paranoid rulers and political infighting, stories of the arrogant brutality of young men and the failures of old men.

We might take a moment to talk about the Romans, as the riches they stole from Syracuse ignited Roman classicism. Besides, there is the delightful story of Aristotle defeating the Roman Empire. And we do have one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres.

(Greek Theatre

Siracusa)

JEWISH AND CHRISTIAN SYRACUSE: This was a centre of Judaism following the Diaspora. We will tour the ancient Jewish quarter, which we know well as we live there. We will visit a ritual bath, a "miqwe", hewn 30 feet deep into bedrock, the oldest and best preserved ancient miqwe in the world.

Yet, Siracusa is primarily a Roman Catholic town and Saint Lucia is the home girl. Her festivals (December 13~20, May 7) are occasions for the Siracusans to parade in their finest. Any time of year, we can remember the miracles of her martyrdom and visit her arm. St. Paul spent three days here enroute to Rome and his martyrdom. We can stand where he preached and visit other saintly dead, for here are the largest ancient catacombs in the world outside of Rome.

Siracusa never took kindly to foreigners: assassinating a Byzantine Emperor naked in the public baths, defying the Arabs for fifty years, holding off the Normans for thirty-five, and massacring the French. But under the Spanish it bloomed into its second golden age.

SPANISH BAROQUE: In 1693, an earthquake shattered eastern Sicily. Yet out of the rubble the ruling Spanish rebuilt the heart of Siracusa, the island of old Ortigia. A short causeway from the mainland, its square kilometre is crowded thick with massive Baroque palaces overlooking narrow mediaeval canyon streets. High balconies sprout laundry and geraniums, great Baroque and Renaissance churches loom on every corner. Stylish boutiques and Internet cafes lead down alleys where masters of woodworking and puppet-making labour in the shadows of tiny shops. Our cathedral has a facade of Rococo exuberance pasted onto the severest of Greek temples, on the site of longest continuous worship in world. The half-moon cathedral square is Sicily's most beautiful. In contrast, there is the 300 foot-tall giant folded beach umbrella. Beginning at dusk, there is the outdoor swirl of cafes, restaurants, and promenades in the sea air. Ortigia is special--Italy's largest example of an old city in the Baroque style--both ancient and sleepy and pulsing with life. We could have lived anywhere in the world, but chose Ortigia. Come and see why.

The most dramatic Greek remains in the world (forgive us, Athens) are in Agrigento, Siracusa, Selinute, and Segesta.

SIRACUSA, I describe above.

AGRIGENTO is graced with the finest collection of Greek temples in the world. This prosperous Greek city built a row of Doric temples along a seacoast ridge (called, oddly, The Valley of the Temples) in the 5th century BC. Time has only softened the beauty of what remains one of the most moving of Greek sites. Where Pirandello was born and Aeschylus died (an eagle dropped a turtle on his head), Agrigento is a place with its own sense of drama.

SELINUNTE, the once-grand Greek city of Selinus, anchored western Sicily, fatally sited across the straits from Carthage. Today we can walk amid the columns of its temples, so beautifully placed on its windy coastal site. A lonely, lovely corner of Sicily, often we can have the temples to ourselves.

SEGESTA is a glorious temple proudly perched on a hillside and a fine theatre high on the bluff: "Nothing could be more judiciously chosen than the situation of Segesta: it lay upon a ridge of hills gently sloping towards the northern aspect, sheltered on the southern and eastern quarter by high rocky eminences, at the foot of which two raring brooks winded their course and embraced the city. While Segesta was in a flourishing state, its environs populous and well cultivated, the aspects of the country must have been delightful. . . .” Henry Swinburne, "Travels in the Two Sicilies in the years 1777, 1778, and 1780".

Is that it for the Greeks? By Apollo no! There were dozens of Greek cities, and in every part of Sicily are Greek (and pre-Greek) excavations. Gela, Camarina, Tindari, Megara Hyblea, Lentini, etc. etc. Most visitors neglect these, so we don't get as many chances to go there as we would like. Do us a favour and let's go.

ROMAN VILLA AT CASALE reminds us not to forget the Romans. In the heart of Sicily, we can visit what is likely the luxurious country villa of an emperor (AD 3-4th century). Here are found wonderfully lively and vivid Roman mosaics still in place on the floors of the villa. Nowhere else can you get a better impression of how the very rich lived two millennia ago, and nowhere see better the best of the art of mosaic as the artist wanted you to see it.

South-eastern Sicily is home of the unique style of the Sicilian Baroque, a UNESCO World Heritage area. In 1693, an earthquake shattered eastern Sicily. Yet, out of the rubble, the ruling Spanish used local architects and sculptors to rebuild Noto, Siracusa, Ragusa, and Modica in a single glorious style.

First is the historic town centre of SIRACUSA, the island of Ortigia. A short causeway from the mainland, its square kilometre throngs with massive Baroque palaces overlooking narrow mediaeval canyon streets. It is the largest assemblage of Baroque architecture in Italy.

Then, just a half hour drive down the coast from Siracusa, is NOTO. Once a Bronze Age city on a high ridge, later taken over by the Greeks, later it became an Arab regional capital. A millennium-and-a half later, the 1693 earthquake erased old Noto completely. The citizens moved down to a hillside overlooking the sea and built a new Noto from scratch. Architects were given a blank slate, and the result is a masterpiece of city planning. Visit on a sunny day, when its theatrical streets glow with honey-golden stone. Deep in almond country, it has the best cannoli and sweets, and, if you come in May, we can visit the “infiorata” when a street a paved with flowers.

Then RAGUSA, MODICA, and other towns in the south-east are more UNESCO-preserved jewels of Sicilian Baroque. And the regional cuisine is distinctive and fresh. In Ragusa is one of Italy's best restaurants.

Sicily’s capital and largest city, PALERMO sits on the north coast on a great arching bay. The Phoenicians made Palermo into a large naval base against the Romans in the Punic Wars, but the Romans won and Sicily’s Golden Age was over. Palermo, however, revived with conquest by the Arabs, and in the ninth and tenth centuries became the third great intellectual and artistic centre of the civilized world, equal to Cordoba and Baghdad. With the Norman conquest came new splendour, and from the Norman Palace and its Palatine Chapel to the glories of Monreale Cathedral, Palermo now boasts a unique Arabo-Norman art and architecture that attracts visitors and scholars from around the world. This thriving city of 700,000 is also known, of course, for the Mafia. However troublesome for the residents, for the visitor, thoughts of Mafia give the city an extra interest. Nonetheless, the city, led by its crusading mayor, has been wresting control back for the proud and sophisticated citizens of Palermo, and much of the city reflects a new optimism. Grand opera, elegant shops, and Sicily's best restaurants.

above: St. Rosalia Festival, Palermo

left: Norman Cathedral in Cefalù


What to see? The Palazzo dei Normanni, with its famous Palatine Chapel, is the matchless expression of Arab-Norman architecture and decoration. Nearby S. Giovanni degli Eremiti is a little Norman gem, as are La Marturana and San Cataldo. The museums are world-class (see below). Ages of Christianity are expressed in many fine Norman palaces and historic churches. In Oratorios of S. Domenico and S. Cità, with Serpotta's stucco fantasies, the Rococo really gets crazy. For street life, we might catch the Vucciria street market (fish and produce), the Ballaro street market (produce and antiques), the Capo street market, (clothes and produce), the Papireto street market(odds and ends). For the touch of the macabre, some folks just have to visit the dead monks.

Yet the greatest attraction in Palermo is just outside. The internationally renowned MONREALE CATHEDRAL, the Normans in their full glory. This building is unique and worth crossing the world to see. East of Palermo is a contemporary Norman cathedral in the little seaside town of Cefalù.

TAORMINA is Sicily’s most popular tourist destination. From Romans through the glitterati, it has been the holiday destination for the rich and famous. The Greco-Roman Theatre that overlooks the town has one of the finest views in the world. A shopping mecca with fine beach, Taormina has become the focus of mass tourism in Sicily.

Then there is cheerful CATANIA, a city optimistic enough to reinvent itself each time Etna gets a mind to erase it. Sicily’s second city was built primarily from black volcanic stone, giving it a very dark appearance. Where the city focuses on the cathedral and the lively university district is the Fontana dell'Elefante, a black lava elephant fountain (1736), the symbol of the city. From here, we can stroll any direction through Catania, visiting Baroque churches, the beautiful Bellini Opera House, cute museums, and lively music clubs and cafés.

As he approached the kingdom of Aeolus, the God of the Winds, Ulysses saw a "floating island: an entire wall of bronze, indestructible, stark", for the Aeolian Islands indeed burst their volcanic cones directly out of the sea. In the brilliant sunshine, they sparkle with lavish and contrasting colours: brilliant yellow sulphur crystals oozing from the rock fissures, cheerful fields of spring flowers, white-sand beaches against a sapphire sea. It is no surprise that the Aeolian Islands are one of the most popular holiday destinations for the Italians themselves. In addition to the natural beauty and grandeur, the islands were home to Sicily’s oldest recorded culture, and we will visit one of the finest marine archaeological museums in the Mediterranean. Ulysses feasted well in the palace of Aeolus and we too will enjoy the best of local cuisine. Without too much strain, we can walk up a volcano and descend into the crater. How many opportunities are there in one lifetime to do that?

You want a gastronomic tour? Stephen is the expert here, the man who knows every restaurant owner and every out-of-the-way gem. Siracusa Region offers the best of fresh fish and an amazing variety of maritime edibles. The fresh ricotta of Sicily cannot be compared. There is more than a touch of the Arab in Sicilian cooking and more than a hint of the Spanish; our famous cherry tomatoes, eggplant, oranges and lemons, almonds, pistachios, etc. appear in sauces, pastas, and desserts (such as "cannoli"). Tastes are real and pungent. For elegance, there are Michelin-starred restaurants in Palermo and Ragusa. And now natural foods and the Slow Food movement is catching on and many farmhouse B & Bs (agriturismo) offer traditional cooking in the freshest and most natural way.

(making pasta in Sicily)


By the way, forget what you've heard about Marco Polo bringing pasta from China [He probably didn't even get to China].  More likely, the Arabs invented pasta in Sicily in the 9th Century.  In fact, they have given Sicilian cuisine most of what makes it unique.

HYBLEAN PLATEAU: East of Siracusa, we can motor out to some of the most splendidly uncrowded and rugged landscape in all Italy. In the spring, wildflowers spread lovely mosaics across the hills. We can see deep rocky gorges where thousands of rock-cut tombs pocket the cliffs, Greek theatres on lonely plateaus, ancient battlefields, quiet hilltop villages, each with beautiful churches and tough people. The Valle dell’Anapo, Cava Ispica, the awesome Cava Grande, and the remote Pantalica plateau with its cliff faces of rock tombs all are less than hour from Siracusa. Buscemi is a small hamlet preserved as a living museum of traditional Sicilian rural life. Speaking of wildflowers, the Greeks thought our Hyblean uplands were the home of God's nectar. Come to the Sortino honey festival or the Avola almond festival. Come at any time and we will find a festival to join.

(prehistoric tombs in Pantalica National Park)

BEACHES: Without doubt, the sun-facing south and southeast coast of Sicily offers some of the finest and warmest beaches in the Mediterranean. Although we can offer the full Club Med, beach umbrella ,and Margarita treatment, the package tours haven't really found us yet. We specialise in lonely sun-splashed sands.

ETNA: The world’s most continuously active yet most approachable volcano towers over all of Sicily, twice the height of everything else. When Etna permits, an expensive four-wheel drive option from the car park can go close to the summit. Yet, the adventurous hiker can walk right up to the top, for all of Etna herself is a nature preserve. In the winter, you can ski the volcano in the morning and sunbathe away the afternoon on a beach.

From the seafloor, with famous diving sites, to the sub-alpine mountain habitats, Sicily packs a great verticality on the triangle island.

MOUNTAINS: In the Madonie Mountains National Park you might not see an elusive North African Crested Porcupine, but with 65% of the nesting birds and all mammals that are found in Sicily, you could encounter Martens, Ravens, and maybe a Golden Eagle. The treasure of the Park is the rare Madonie Fir (Abies Nebrodensis) with 29 specimens in the world. The Nebrodi Mountains take us to sea-hugging cliffs and extremely remote valleys.

COASTAL WILDLIFE PARKS: Sicily boasts a Ramsar Convention wetland, Vendicari, south of Siracusa, where birders come from all Europe to see migratory waterfowl with over 20,000 waterbirds during the spring migration period.

On the south coast lies Biviere di Gela National Park, Wildlife Sanctuary. A coastal, freshwater lagoon backed by hills and separated from the sea by a dune system. The area is important as a staging area for numerous species of migratory birds, including important numbers of Great Cormorants.

Then, in the north-west, is Zingaro. Though on the coast, the terrain is rugged. Here might be seen the Bonelli Eagle, one of rarest European birds of prey, whose presence was one of the main reasons for the institution of the reserve. Here also is another rarity, the Greek Partridge of Sicily.

Yes, and we invented it. We can take you to sites of Mafia activity in Palermo, Corleone, Siracusa, and, well, lots of places. In fact, the best examples are the roadways beneath our van. We will discuss the Mafia, where they came from and what they are up to. We will discuss the anti-Mafia movement and visit the anti-Mafia museum in Corleone. You can stay overnight in the estate of a Mafia Don, now turned into a beautiful organic-food farmhouse B&B, run by Libera, a national anti-Mafia organisation. The Mediterranean Centre in Siracusa, for university study-abroad students, even offers a very popular course on the Mafia.

11.  "On Location" -- Film site tours
      
Many great films have been shot here, including "The Godfather" (all three parts), "Il Postino", "The Leopard", "Cinema Paradiso", "Malena", "Divorce, Italian Style", and others. We will take you to where the scenes were filmed, We know where the director stayed and his favourite restaurant, and know people who knew the actors, and some who were extras on screen. Furthermore, Douglas used to live in Tunisia and we can do a "Star Wars" tour in a country rich in sites and images from the film. Just ask.



12.  Museums, Galleries, Exhibitions
 
One full day (or several) 
             
No one does museums as well as the Italians. There are fine museums across Sicily. Among the more interesting:

AGRIGENTO:  The Archaeological Museum here is Sicily's most visited (one of Italy's top ten), and lays out the story of the great and rich city of Akragas with splendid openness and clarity.  A gigantic towering telemon gives a sense of the former massiveness of the Greek world's largest temple and alone is worth the trip.

SIRACUSA: The Archaeological Museum of Siracusa tells the story of ancient Sicily with absolute clarity. Modern, beautifully organised, it is one of the best archaeological museums in Europe. You could linger there for days. On the other hand, the City Gallery in Palazzo Bellomo, a little gem of a mediaeval (C 13) palace, focuses on one masterpiece: our treasured Caravaggio of St. Lucy. The Museo del Papiro looks into the fascinating history of papyrus in Siracusa, the only place in all Europe where it grows. Come and make some paper. We have a world-class numismatic collection because Siracusan coins are famous among collectors as the best of the ancient world.

PALERMO: In the curious Kalsa Quarter, the Galleria Regionale di Sicilia, Sicily's main museum is a treasure of sculpture, art, and especially archaeology. The Pitrè Ethnographical Museum is superb as well.

AEOLIAN ISLANDS: For lovers of archaeology, Lipari has one of the clearest and most thorough collections of the rich underwater finds of three millennia of Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and everyone else sailing these waters. There also is an interesting vulcanology museum on these explosive islands.

Some of the most charming museums are scattered around the small towns. The country town of BUSCEMI is itself a living ethnographical museum.



13.  Florence, Rome, etc.                
We have links to some of the best people to show you Florence, Rome, Naples, and other places in Italy. Just ask.



14.  Your Tour                
We can tailor your visit to your interests and time. We can go anywhere and do anything you like (well, almost anything). Just let us know what you want to do and we'll make an itinerary tailored to you.